Prior to the 6.8L V10 Triton engine being released in 1999, Ford offered a 7.5L V8 that had been around since 1968. The 7.5 V8 was a fan favorite in the commercial truck space and was a popular gas option in light of the International/Powerstroke diesel engines. Despite the large demand for the V8, the engine had to be produced on a separate assembly line which was not cost efficient, leading to the demise of the 7.5L V8 gas engine.
After the demise of the 7.5, the only non-diesel options for truck drivers were the 5.4 Triton and the 4.6 Triton. However, these engines lacked the power for commercial applications and did not meet the hauling requirements for Super Duty trucks.
In step the 6.8L Triton V10 gas engine. Coming in cheaper and with more horsepower than the Powerstroke diesels, the engines provided highly capable towing capacity at a more affordable price point. However, the downside is the fuel economy faired worse than the diesels and needed premium gasoline.
The 6.8 Triton V10 lasted in production until 2019. Horsepower ranged from 305hp-362hp and with torque measuring from 420-457lb ft.
Ford 6.8 Triton V10 Vehicle Applications
- 1999-2010 Ford F250 Super Duty
- 2005-2010 Ford F350 Super Duty
- 1999-2005 Ford Excursion
- 1999-2019 Ford E250 and E350 Ecoline
- 2005-2019 Ford F450/F550
- 2012-2019 Ford F650/F750 medium duty trucks
- 1999-2019 F53 Chassis (motorhomes)
Common Ford 6.8 Triton V10 Engine Problems
- Spark Plug Blowout (pre-2002)
- PCV Hose Crack
- Exhaust Manifold Failure
1. Triton V10 Spark Plug Blowout
Pre-2002 V10 Triton engines have an unfortunate design flaw within the cylinder head and spark plug designs that can cause the plugs to actually eject out of cylinder head, or weld themselves to it.
The Triton V10 engines used a cast iron engine block and aluminum cylinder heads that have centrally mounted spark plugs. Compared to the aluminum cylinder head, the spark plugs were made out of steel, which has very different heat tolerances compared to aluminum.
The biggest design flaw came with the spark plugs holes in the cylinder head. At only 5 inches of depth, the spark plugs had to be extremely short to fit within their respective wells in the cylinder head. To accommodate for the short depth, Ford shortened the length of the threads, leaving only about 4 threads on the spark plug compared to most traditional spark plugs with 10+. Therefore, there was very little holding the spark plugs into place to start with.
Because of the heat properties, the threads essentially get welded into the head, which weakens the material and the hold. Two things happen when the Triton V10 spark plugs weld themselves to the head:
- You can’t get the spark plugs out when you try to replace them because they are essentially welded in place
- The plugs literally blow out of the head because the material weakens and breaks
Prevent Triton Spark Plug Blowout
There are a few handy tips that can help prevent this issue for OEM plugs, like not over-torqueing the spark plugs, using anti-seize, etc. However, due to the poor spark plug design and metal properties of the head and OEM plugs, the safest option is to use a thread repair kit such as HeliCoil or Cal Van.
These kits essentially require you to re-tap the plug hole and then install a thread insert that will hold the spark plugs in place. The thread inserts are designed so that the materials won’t melt into each other and cause future blowout.
Here is an example of a good Triton Spark Plug Kit: https://www.jbtools.com/cal-van-tools-38900-ford-insert-repair-kit/
2. Triton Cracked PCV Hose
Modern gas engines have a gas recirculating system called Positive Crankcase Ventilation, or PCV. When an engine burns gasoline, it creates waste gasses as a byproduct. While most of these gasses enter the exhaust system where they are burned again, some of these gasses get stuck in the engine.
When the waste gasses get trapped, they make their way down to the crankcase which holds oil below the engine. If the gasses sit in there for too long it can ruin the oil and cause serious engine problems. So the PCV system has a valve within the crankcase that releases these waste gasses and recirculates them back into the intake manifold for them to get re-burned in the engine again.
When the PCV valve releases the gasses back to the intake manifold it does so through the PCV hose. The hose is connected to the intake manifold from the PCV valve.
The PCV hose is made of plastic and therefore is prone to cracking on the 6.8 Triton. When the hose cracks, the intake manifold loses pressure and air can leak out of the intake system, leading to a number of performance related issues.
PCV Hose Crack Symptoms
- Rough idling (most common)
- Whistling or hissing sound from the engine
- Cylinder misfires
- Bad fuel economy
Fortunately, replacement options are as simple as ordering a new PCV hose and installing it. The hose is relatively accessible within the engine bay so DIY’ing this repair should be pretty simple, even for novice mechanics.
3. Triton V10 Exhaust Manifold Failure
Exhaust manifolds bolt up to the engine cylinders and the exhaust system. They transfer used engine air to the exhaust system where it is then released into the atmosphere.
On the Triton 6.8, the bolts or studs that connect the manifold to the engine block are prone to rusting and failing. This generally happens over a number of years and tends to be more prone in areas where salty air is more common. When these bolts fail, it doesn’t cause any catastrophic damage. The manifold won’t fall out from underneath the car when you are driving.
However, the bolts will loosen and therefore create and exhaust leak. When this happens, you lose all backpressure created and therefore can experience a handful of performance related issues.
Exhaust Manifold Leak Symptoms Triton 6.8
- Loud exhaust noise
- Loss of acceleration
- Smelly exhaust (can smell from inside the car usually)
- Bad fuel economy
While rusted out bolts are usually the cause on the Triton, leaks can also be caused by cracked exhaust manifolds. If the manifold itself cracks, you will need to replace the full manifold. If it’s just bad bolts causing the problem, you can buy an inexpensive bolt kit and fix the issue pretty easily.
Repair Kit: https://amzn.to/3b9RPNr
Ford 6.8 Triton V10 Reliability
Is the 6.8 Triton V10 reliable? Overall, this engine is well built and is highly reliable. Outside of the common spark plug blowout issue, there aren’t really any costly problems that the 6.8 Triton is known for. The spark plug issue can be fixed preventatively with a repair kit that costs a few hundred bucks. The only other known common problems are super simple and inexpensive fixes.
The engine block, internals, etc. are all highly reliable and likely won’t cause any engine failure issues before the 200,000 mile mark. Overall, these engines are considered very reliable and can last well beyond the 200,000 mile mark. However, once you start eclipsing that mark you can expect to start experiencing a handful of maintenance-related repairs with things like water pumps, fuel pumps, hoses, gaskets, etc.
The only potential downside to the engine is its very poor fuel economy. You can expect to get 8-10mpg in the Triton V10. If you are a very conservative driver, you may be able to see closer to 12mpg, but nonetheless, the fuel mileage certainly makes this an expensive gas guzzler.
For those who have the 6.8 Triton in a motorhome or who primarily use it for hauling heavy items, just note that problems are likely to occur slightly earlier into the engines life due to additional stress put on the engine from the weight.
Thank you for your very good article on common problems found with the Ford Triton V10 engine. I have a 2013 33 ft. Class A motorhome with a Ford Triton V10. Am I correct in understanding that the spark plug problem is only with pre-2002 Triton V10s? If that’s the case, then Ford must have recognized the problem and rectified it.
Bill – that is correct that the issue was only pre-2002, shouldn’t be anything to worry about with your 2013.
What about 07 f350 ?
He litterally just said Pre-02… 07 is after 02
😂😂😂😂
I have a 2005/06 E450 Class C and have had two spark plugs blow out in the last 6 months. The threads on the 1st one was still good. The 2nd one will need an insert. My guess is that it’s still a problem.
Most likely the previous owner had them done and they weren’t torqued properly which causes them to fail
In comercial vehicles it’s common for older series of engines to be used than the vehicle itself, you may have a pre 2002 engine
I have a 2000 v10 in my motorhome. The 3 speed+ of revs very high. Up to 4500 rpm when it downshifts going uphill. Is there any special maintenance I should consider for this type of use? Current mileage is only 42,000 mi – so not driven much, but hard when driven, as frequently max out the gross to 25,000#
I have a 1999 f250 with the6.8 and it dose the same thing I was told that it is normal for this engine it has good power but it’s at a high rpm.
You can get a reprogramming kit which will change shift points and eliminate some of the kick down scenario, but it won’t eliminate it completely. I’ve been very happy with the difference in power and shifting the reprogramming has provided.
Bull, I just put a timesert kit in my 2008. Second one to go!
What about 2002 and newer engines? How are they rated
Great Read !!! Thanks
I just purchased a 2016 27′ motor home with the 6.8 triton v10. The test drive felt peppy with decent acceleration. Do I need to use premium gas or can I use regular.?
I would use the mid grade at least. I’m in CO and our lowest grade at this altitude is 85 and I hear pinging when I use straight 85 octane.
There’s never a good case to be made for mid-grade, unless you’re custom-tuned for it.
From the factory, vehicles are most commonly tuned for 87-octane, and higher-performance stuff is tuned for 91-octane.
Mid-grade 89-octane price is a tax on people who don’t know better, who think they’re doing right for their car, but are wrong.
Fill it with what the owner’s manual recommends, unless you know it’s got a custom tune for a specific octane of gas.
What does your owner’s manual advise you to use?
My Super Duty with the 6.8, the owner’s manual is very clear about 87 octane.
If you’re buying higher octane gas, you’re wasting money needlessly.
the 6.8 is low compression ratio made use regular fuel using premium not worth it really
Always look at the owners manual or on the fuel door itself when unsure about what octane to use. The engine was built and tuned by the manufacturer. They know what works best.
Just purchased a 1999 Ford XLT V10 truck. It’s got 19200 miles on it, paid about $7800. Hope it was a good choice. Going be pulling a 36′ 5th wheel.
That seems like you overpaid.
Is there any none oil pump problems on the v10
I have a 2012 31ft rvwith only 22oook on it. lost oil pressure while driving home and span a shell warranty won’t pay didn’t no if it was a problem with this motor?
Yes and the timing set up in all triton ford’s are garbage and extremely problematic and I’d you try to put anything other than ford Motorcraft parts for the timing you’ll have worse problems. This article is completely stupid and whoever wrote obviously don’t know his ass from the hole in his face when it comes to engine he couldn’t even figure out that 99 wasn’t the first year for that engine
That was rude and unprofessional of him to say that you payed too much. there are so many variables that you need to factor in when talking price and I hope it’ll last you a lifetime. I got a 99 f350 dually long bed crew cab with 126k on it for 12k and put probably 8k into it not including the new toolbox setup I just ordered. And if something else goes wrong I’ll fix that too😆
Enjoy, and if you need some pep the only way to go is talking to the guys @ 5satarcustomtune they can program custom tunes for you onto a device you plug into your obd port under your dash and you get free modifications for life, they’re great people. Buy around a Holliday and you’ll get a discount, then they’ll give you a mail in rebate for $40 too (about $100 off all together)
Drive safe
is the 2008 v10 have the spark plug issues or did ford fix problem. ford f350 crew cab
Fixed in 2006
Mine blew on a 2008 twice
A couple more issues these V10s were known for was rocker arms falling off on the early models (probably fixed in ’02 with the plug issue) and the 3 valves suffering from oil pump failure. Despite the issues they had, these are extremely tough engines that can handle serious abuse with basic maintenance. Most of the issues I see normally don’t start to occur until they have racked up many miles and commonly hit 300k still going strong. My only complaint on performance is the fuel economy. I’m sure some refinements could have been made to squeeze a few more mpg out of them, but mileage seems to stay about the same whether they are loaded down or not. Stop at every gas station you see if you are on a long haul.
I 2 grenade ony in 99. Both had a rod blow through the block at about 85,000 miles. 1 from the dealer, 1 from jasper. Put another jasper in it at 68,000 and dumped it. Loved the engine and truck. Now I’m gun shy about the v10.
Where’s this nonsense about requiring premium fuel coming from?
The owner’s manual is clear about 87 octane.
That had me worried a bit I just filled my 2004 f250 with 87 ( Just bought the truck so was my first fill up) and today the truck started loosing acceleration and acting weird. But after this read I’m thinking the spark plug issue is what it is?
Check pcv valve and exhaust manifolds. Could be a cracked manifold or broken bolt
Did you figure it out?
Fuel pump?😂
I’ve got a 99 v10 and love it
Fuel filter and fuel injectors clog up. I would try some fuel injector cleaner…It’s worked for me. Have a qualified mechanic check your fuel pressure. 28-30# running at idle, 38-40# not running with key on. Fuel flow problems on fuel injector systems are pretty common. I believe it’s the crappy gas we have…gums things up.
I am considering buying a 2002 small bus with the triton v10. Would it have the new sparkplug modification to prevent them from blowing out? Can the plugs be changed without taking the engine out?
I have an rv with the 6.8.while on a 5 wk road trip, blew a plug, had it repaired and continued trip for 2 more weeks. No more problems but when I got home, removed all 10 coils and plugs below them, found another loose plug insert, replaced all plugs, used high heat threadlocker on insert that had come loose. Lubed and torqued plugs ONLY to 11 ft/ lbs ( as req’d) driven 6000 kms the past two summers with no problems
Yes! Me and my mom did it in a day on my 2001 f250.
This is work you can do yourself laying non top of the coolant tank with a 6-pack. No need to remove anything but the coils to work. (I still took off the air filter and disconnected some hoses and wires to reach the back cylinders.)
Only replace with Motorcraft plugs and coils. For best and longest lasting results replace the coils too. You can find them for less than 500$ for all ten if you search. Found mine on ebay.
I recommend BIG-SERT Oversized spark plug repair kits from time-sert. An air wrench will save some arm tiring but it’s not needed. And as you probably know the #5 cylinder is gonna take ghandi like patience. Make sure to advance the engine (without starting it!) To keep the head you are tapping in the proper position advance the engine a little If you run into trouble getting a hole to catch easily. Otherwise the instructions are easy to follow and the price is worth the value. The plugs are more secure and safer than they were off the factory floor. I had four blow out before I did this and haven’t had any problems for 30,000 moles and counting.
Oh! Be careful with the wire connectors. I ended up zip tieing a few because the keeper tabs broke.
You’ll probably need these since there’s 10 cylinders to do.:
Fix-a-thred
Spark plug hole repair inserts
Plugsaver
Part# 98144P
I’m not sure if this is the right forum for this question but hopefully some of you guys have some perspective to share.
I’m considering buying an F250 xlt with the Triton V10 gas engine. I borrow the truck to tow my 5,000 lbs boat often. I’ve noticed that it burns or leaks transmission fluid when I tow at high speeds on the interstate. This is with overdrive off as that is what the manual says.
Should I just leave overdrive on when towing? I’m wondering if it’s just a leak or if this is related to the high rpms it’s running while towing.
I can’t answer your question but I have a 2000 F250 super day since new and I have the same problem when towing 32 fr camper looked for answers for years and no one had a good answer I just keep extra trans fluid with me at all times
Keeping the rpm down seems to help
From an old lady mechanic I would believe it is from the higher rpm’s causing the fluid to exit the transmission via the vent. The higher rpm’s would cause an increase in flow and temperature making the fluid much more likely to get out through the vent. Just my best guess. lol
I drove a couple for a company full size passenger van first time drove it empty i burned rubber across the intersection i drove hard every day it was the most comfortable ride ever never got a back driving more then 8 hours a day
It was comforting to read about the reliability of the V 10. I just purchased a 2002 Winnabago on an E 450 Chassis. It eats gas between 8 and 10 mpg and seems a bit slow on the hills, other motor homes passing me up. I assume newer V 10 with 6 speed makes a difference and of course Diesels.
I am satisfied that I will leave well enough alone and no longer seek for better mileage or performance
You need a programmer from 5starcustomtunes they’re great over there tell Blake I sent you, he’ll hook you up! They’ll modify the tunes you get for life! It’s worth it trust me.
I am considering purchasing a motorhome to pull my racecar and trailer. I was told i need a diesel. There are a lot of v10 tritons available and reasonably priced. I live in Pittsburgh and we’re famous for hilly terrain. Would a v10 triton work.
I have a 2003 Winnwbago Sightseer 30B with the 6.8L V-10 with the 6 speed transmission. I believe that the chassis is 2002 F53. Does this engine have the plug blow out issue or is it engine prior to 2002?
I have a 99 F250 6.8l had spark plug problems. heli- coil did fix it. reflashed pcm with latest programing milage jump to 16 mpg. I can live with that. would recomend anyone with 6.8l get reflash for pcm. my truck is 4×4.
What flash, programmer,etc.. specifically did you install 9-10 mpg.isnt cutting it…any help would greatly appreciate it
I’m not sure how I double sent that to you it was supposed to go to the guy you were asking. Did he respond?
I’m not sure what he did but custom tunes are great and 5starcustomtunes is where I went. I never tried the economy tune but I did get it with the 5 free custom tunes on the device. It’s gotta be the only way if possible. Talk to a guy named Blake he helped me and was great (as I’m sure they all are) and he’ll hook you up. I wanted performance and towing for working but they are custom tunes so there you go.
They also offer a $4ail in rebate🤑
16 mpg???? What do you do with your truck??
I don’t understand your comment here, you had your pcm reflashed to what? For economy?
Where did u get tune from?
Maybe you can help, We have a 2018 Coachman Pursuit with the v10. First the fuel modulator went out. in the middle of the interstate. it was fixed . Our problem now is 3 times the engine just won’t start ? Sit for a anout 30 mins and majic it cranks right up. Any advice ?
Sounds like a crank position sensor I had a car that did the same thing a shop said 2500.00 to fix I did a little research and only needed the 30 dollar sensor so you might try that.
Hello Kathy, My 2006 Sierra motorhome had the same problem on our shakedown cruise last week. Starter motor was shot. The solenoid could not activate the starter when hot but after it cooled down it could start. Mechanic crawled under the coach and tapped the start solenoid (on the side of the starter motor) while i turned the key and it fired right up. Drove it straight to his shop where the starter was replaced. No more issues.
My 2008 F350 “pings” very noticeably with anything less than 89 octane. Which is considered mid grade at most California gas stations. Is there a possible mechanical issue ? Truck runs and tows beautifully. Very happy with it . Has been trouble free , 85000 miles
I have a 2004 Triton v10 that recently started idling high
I have a 2015 Ford E-350 with the V-10 with 54,500 miles that just went through a head gasket that likely has trashed the engine and left us sitting over 1,000 miles away from home. Not so bullet proof now is it!
How did the head gasket trash the engine? Did you let it run out of collent?
*Coolant
I have a 2003 Lazy Daze on an E450 V10 Chassis with about 95K miles. I am not currently having any significant problems although I have not had it out in awhile. If it has been sitting for a week or a couple months or over the winter and I go to start it it always starts right up. If I have been driving for awhile and stop someplace for 30 minutes or so and go to start it it won’t start. Through trial and error I have found if it does not start right up I need to turn the key completely off and then try again. It almost always starts right up on the second try as long as I have turned the key totally off. Any ideas what is going on there?
This so sounds like a chip in the key issue or chip reader!. Do you have a second key to try? That would be my first test!
This is a 2003. My keys are just keys; nothing fancy. I don’t even have a button for the door locks. This has to be something with the starting sequence and probably fuel pressure. But I am not a mechanic. Might be something with the ignition switch but since it always starts when cold I don’t think that is it.
The fuel pressure is dropping when the engine is turned off. Almost every vehicle with modern fuel injection has an electric fuel pump. When you first turn the key to the ‘Run’ position and listen closely, you can hear the fuel pump for 2 – 3 seconds. It then stops because it has usually built adequate pressure. It – the fuel pump – will not begin running again until the engine starts (prevents flooding.) If the engine hasn’t started in ten seconds of cranking turn the key completely off and then try to start again. What happens when you turn the key completely off and back on is the fuel pump will run for another 2 – 3 seconds and will likely be enough to allow the engine to start. You need to have the fuel system checked to see if you need a new pump &/or filter or possibly a fuel regulator.
I’d say fuel pump
Or fuel pump related. Check or replace relay first. And don’t go for an aftermarket fuel pump because it’s cheaper, it’ll fail quickly. Go motorcraft if u can.
In 2015 my wife and I purchased a Thor motorhome it has the Triton V10 6.8 L made by Ford. We purchased this vehicle for our retirement to do some traveling. Now to our surprise they told us the engine was shot recommended replacing it it only has 24,000 Miles on it. We are nine months out of warranty it has five years 60,000 miles. The oil is changed regularly and they check it before every trip it is now at a Ford dealer getting diagnosed it was diagnosed before by a truck repair shop. 24,000 miles it’s not a lot of miles now if it needs a new engine my wife and I will have to get into our retirement funds to pay for it. I am hoping Ford will show some heart and help us pay for this catastrophe.
a second opinion is definitely warranted here. Unless somebody severely abused the engine (no water, no oil) it should not be shot at 24,000 miles. What is the reason you felt it needed to be diagnosed to begin with? Was it running poorly?.
we had a catastrophic engine failure at 47K, replaced with a new engine, and now serious problems with this new crate engine at less than 2K.
Read the article. It’s all there
I have a 1999 Fleetwood Tioga 23B with a Triton V-10 engine. It only has a 24,000 miles on it. The issue is a rough idle, and now has started stalling at stops at times. So far have not had any luck finding someone to look at it…Ford says they can’t lift it; another place said they don’t work on anything over 20 years old. Am trying to figure if it could possibly just be a bad EGR valve or the like since it has sat some, and could be clogged up. I’m wondering if there’s a fix I could try like a fuel fluid or the like to see if it remedies the problem. It’s been a great little motorhome other than this, and I’m not too keen on driving it like this. Thanks in advance!
99 with only 24 thous. On it..have u replaced the fuel filtr& air f. Chk for cracked egr hose.. they cracked on the lower back side where u can t see it..a hand held snap on will pick it up when u touch it
And listen u guys ,u need to rotate all the Tran. Fluiduot of the torque convertor, by looking up fill copas., line up that many open bottles, put funnel in stick tube , unbolt line going into radiator, bend into 5 gal. Bucket, turn on ,,now idling and pumping in bucket, and fast as u can put new fluid down funnel, and just as u finish last qt., ull see dirty fluid go clear…..shut down..reboot line to trans…clean up….run and chk…but Don t scream when u see how dirty the old fluid in the bucket is….even though I’ll be shocked
Have a mechanic check pcv system hose for a leak
This looks like I wrote it. I can’t pass emissions. Left bank right bank lien codes pressure differential switch downstream code replaced EGR number six coil good compression. Three Ford dealers didn’t want to work on it too old. Engine runs well and delivers8 to 10 miles per gallon consistently with decent power. Nice little motorhome just can’t get it to pass emissions
I have a 2005 e450 v 10 Ford fleetwood tioga when I take the gas cap off it has a lot of pressure what could cause that
Hi, i have a 2004 6.8 L v 10, i’m having trouble working out what coolant i have , it looks a browny colour. Certainly not green
any clues?
Gold
Gold, if you have not figured it out yet.
I just bought a 2000 Ford excursion 6.8 V10 with 135,000 miles at the auction for 1750. Kbb says 10 grand, I stole this bad boy fellas!
I have this engine in my Ford F-350 and until 2 months ago the engine gave me no issues. It has 215,000 miles. In the last month it has blown out 2 plugs which were repaired with a helicopter.
Gas mileage has improved with age! Last trip I got 13.2 mpg!
Question: what size is my fuel tank? 30 or 38 gallons?
We have a 2015 Motorhome with a Trident V10. The first motor gave up at 45K. 2 cylinders scored. Engine was serviced regularly with each documented. After replacing this original engine. The same has happened 3 more times!!! We keep asking is there another issue causing this? Engine number 4 is on order now! This has all occurred over a period of 1 year and three months! Any ideas???
Cheryle,
Can you please publish the name of the shop here? This is nuts. I had a V10 motorhome, I sold it and got an older one with the old Ford 460, Its great.
I’m looking at a 2012 F550 bucket truck with over 200,000 miles. Do you think I’d be safe with this motor or should I stick to the diesels?
2000 motor home with 21k has triton v10 450 has no obd code starts and idles good but when in gear has no power. Changed converter and fuel filter. Need help.
Pull out your 02 sensors and drive it (it will be loud) long enough to see if you have good acceleration. If you have good power with the 02 sensors out, you have a bad catalytic converter..
Is the 2000 f250 6.8L V10 GASOLINE REAR WHEEL DRIVE W/ 4X4 a good truck to purchase for 17000? It has 89,000 miles on it??
I recently bought a 2010 Motorhome with a Ford reman V10. 2000 miles later I scored two cylinders and Ford is not standing behind it. What could have caused this kind of damage?
Don – cylinder scoring is usually either caused by the pistons, overheating, or poor lubrication. If the piston rings wear down it can cause chafing with the cylinder walls which will score them. Additionally, overheating and excess heat can cause it as well. And lastly, a lack of oil could also cause friction between the pistons and cylinder wall. Considering it’s a remanufactured engine you could maybe argue it was caused by a poor rebuild, but without tearing the engine apart it is difficult to say what exactly caused it. Ford will probably argue that it could have been caused by you allowing it to overheat or driving it on low oil or not following proper break-in procedures, which is hard to prove isn’t the case.
Hello,
Looking to purchase a 2004 Ford F-250 Triton 6.8 V10. I am worried about the spark plug issue. Should I take it to a Ford dealer to have them do a preemptive fix on the plugs so they don’t blow out?
I have a 2006 F350 4×4 with a 6.8 triton with 255000 miles on it. It just started having fuel pump issues with rail pressure faults. Overall I’m very pleased with it. It still uses very little between changes. I pull a 24ft gooseneck hauling cattle or hogs.
I have a 2001 ford excursion 6.8 v 10 the truck Idles fine but when I give it gas to go it dumps on its face and spits and sputters and goes no where, replaced throttle sensor and before that changed out fuel pump in tank, any I need to check. thanks
I have a 2003 34E Hurricane with 6.8 v10 when ever I start up I lose power and it acts as if it will die but then levels out and repeat a few times. I the hit gas and it levels out and is idling fine and no problems until a shut it off and refuel does it all over again. It did it a couple of times when driving and then leveled out. Any ideas for this problem
I found an excellent specimen 2003 F350, 26k miles. Unbelievably it looks and runs brand new. The idiots here who post poor review comments obviously are unhappy with their choice…or they have a bad mechanic. Any vehicle can be fixed if there’s a problem.