9 Common Problems With 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel Engines, And How You Can Fix Them
Jake is a founder of 8020 Media and one of the lead writers at DieselIQ. He has over 10 years of experience in the automotive industry and is the proud owner of a 2002 F-350 7.3 PowerStroke. When Jake isn’t working, he’s usually wrenching on his PowerStroke, single turbo BMW, or Miata track build. Jake delivers tons of knowledge and hands-on experience and is a valuable asset for those looking to take their diesel to the next level. He is highly knowledgeable on Powerstroke and Duramax diesels.
Ford Power Stroke 7.3L Common Engine Problems
The legendary 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel engine, when properly maintained can provide years of trouble free service. However there are several common problems that can develop over time. Generally speaking these can all be resolved relatively easily. Listed below are 9 common problems of the 7.3 Liter Power Stroke Diesel engine. We then dive into each of the common faults on the 7.3L diesel engine with some symptoms and fixes.
9 Most Common 7.3L Power Stroke Problems
- Injection Pressure Regulator Valve (IPR)
- Injector Driver Module (IDM)
- Cam Position Sensor (CMP)
- UVCH Connectors
- Fuel Filter Clogging
- Lift Pump
- Injector Control Pressure (ICP) Sensor
- Fuel Heater
If you would rather consume this content via a video, check out our 7.3 Powerstroke Common Problems video below:
These faults and failures aren’t in any specific order. Below we dive into each of these 7.3 Power Stroke problems and discuss symptoms and fixes. It’s also important to note – the Ford 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine earns high remarks for reliability. They are great engines, however problems can and do occur. Fortunately, most issues with the 7.3 Power Stroke are relatively simple, cheap fixes.
1) Ford 7.3L Injection Pressure Regulator Valve (IPR)
The Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) Valve, located in the valley on the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). These can stick, seals get damaged, have the sensor go bad or the wires get damaged. Locate the IPR Valve, check for loose or damaged wires, check that the tin nut on the back of the IPR sensor is tight. When reinstalling the IPR unit torque the IPR to 35ft/lbs and do not use sealer on the IPR threads, as there is an orifice in the threaded area which the sealer could plug.
Rebuild IPR Valve from $14 or replacement part number F81Z-9C968-AB. Cost $140-$300 for new.
2) 7.3 Injector Driver Module (IDM) Problems
Injector Driver Module (IDM) – located on drivers side fender. These can go bad or get damaged from water and will cause a no start or rough running and cut outs in revving/rpm. Check for damaged wiring, moisture or water intrusion.
Be sure to check your specific IDM part number as it is engine specific. For 99-2003 F-Series Pickups and E-Series Cargo van, IDM 120, includes part number: XC3F-12B599-AA. Replacement cost $50-$350 for used-new.
3) 7.3L Power Stroke Cam Position Sensor (CMP)
A faulty 7.3L Power Stroke CMP can cause the engine to cut out and eventually die. This may make it not start until it sits or is reset on the batteries. There is an easy way to make sure yours is good. On the Old Body Style (OBS), check if your tachometer moves while cranking. If it does your 7.3 PowerStroke cam position sensor is good. If not then you should replace it. Cam position sensors may be the most common problem on the 7.3L Power Stroke.
Cost $24-$70. Don’t buy the generic sensors from any parts store, get an OEM Cam Position Sensor, part number F7TZ-12K073-B, because some aftermarket CMPs can be defective out of the box. Keep a spare in your glove box.
4) Ford 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel UVCH Connectors
Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) Connectors are another common fault on the 7.3 Power Stroke. When these come loose or get shorted they can cause rough running conditions to the point where the truck sounds like it has 17* timing and it lopes bad and will often die and sputter. Since these are under the valve cover it’s a good idea to replace the valve cover gaskets.
An easy way to fix this or check for it, there are four connectors on your block / heads that are under the valve covers unplug them and check for cut wires, loose or burnt connectors, if they are burnt or damaged, replace them. It’s a simple fix. The entire valve cover gasket kit with connectors, part number F81Z-6584-AA, can be replaced for $100 or less.
5) 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel Fuel Filter Clogging
Clogged fuel filter. A restricted fuel filter will often cause long cranking or a semi-loss of power, if the injectors can’t get the fuel they need. Replace fuel filter. Part number F81Z-9N184-AA. Replacement cost $9-$30.
6) 7.3 Power Stroke Lift Pump Problems
Lift pump failure, this will definitely cause a no start. One way to rule this out is to check the fuel bowl for fuel before and while cranking. If no fuel is in the fuel bowl, fill the bowl up with clean fuel and if it starts replace the pump. Part number F81Z-9C407-AC. Replacement Cost $125-$320
7) Ford 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel Overheating
Overheating is a general issue the 7.3L Ford Power Stroke engine runs into. This could be related to the radiator, thermostat, water pump, cooling fan or bad coolant. Signs of overheating should be easy to pick up on. It’s important to stop driving the truck until the overheating problems are resolved on the 7.3 Power Stroke. Look for the basics like any visible coolant leaks from the 7.3 diesel engine.
The main issues are often the thermostat or water pump, part number F81Z-8501-FA. $120-$250 for one of those. Both are fairly easy to replace.
8) 7.3 Power Stroke ICP Sensor Failure
Injector control pressure (ICP) sensor. Causes the engine to run, but cut in and out and really roughly throttle. Check for oil in the ICP connector, if present, ICP is bad or on the way out. You can verify better running by unplugging the ICP sensor, temporarily, to see if the issue goes away. Cost $65-$167. Part number F6TZ-9F838-A. If oil has permeated the wires, It is recommend to replace the ICP sensor pigtail as well.
9) 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel Fuel Heater Problems
Fuel heater. – The fuel heater can short out and blow maxi fuse #22, disabling the PCM. Disconnect the fuel heater, replace fuse, re-try start. Replacement cost about $3 for the fuse. Always carry spare fuses, including maxi fuses, in the glove box. They’re cheap and easy to replace. Don’t let such a cheap part leave your 7.3 PowerStroke stranded.
How Reliable is the Ford 7.3 Power Stroke?
Overall, the 7.3 Power Stroke is a reliable engine. It has its fair share of common issues, however they’re pretty minor problems in the grand scheme. Ford 7.3L diesels are also getting pretty old. As such, most potential failures are fair game given the age and mileage.
Nonetheless, the 7.3 PowerStroke has a B50 life of roughly 350,000 miles. In other words – about 50% of these 7.3L engines last longer than 350,000 miles. That’s pretty respectable even among diesel engines that are known to outlast gasoline engines. Ford 7.3L diesels are strong internally and have what it takes to last.
They aren’t perfect by any means, but no engine is. 7.3 Power Strokes definitely earn above average remarks for reliability. Maintain the engine well and it will reward you with a great overall experience.
7.3 Power Stroke Problems Summary
Ford’s 7.3L Power Stroke is known as a legendary engine for good reason. We believe it’s one of the best diesel truck engines around. However, the 7.3 Power Stroke is prone to its fair share of problems and failures. The above list of 9 problems certainly isn’t exhaustive as other things can go wrong. This is especially true considering 7.3L PowerStrokes on the road today are 15+ years old.
Fortunately, the vast majority of 7.3 issues are pretty simple, cheap fixes. It’s a good idea to carry some spare parts around in the glove box. This may help you from becoming stranded. Anyways, many 7.3L Power Stroke engines have no trouble eclipsing 350,000 miles. That’s enough to consider this engine a reliable work horse.
What’s your experience with the 7.3L Power Stroke? Are you considering one?
Drop a comment & let us know!
Where do you recommend purchasing items on this list?
my 2000 F250 7.3 has 408,000 miles still running great. if I pull up to a curb it will not pull over the curb, rpms stay low. I suspect not enough fuel pumping to or past the injectors. I replaced the Transmission 4 years ago it was doing the same before I replaced it. It pulls my pontoon just fine even up boat ramps. the only reason I’m going to sell her is she has a utility bed and I’m retired. she never once left me stranded !
Have 1997 F250 Power Stroke. Shop is not able to get a reading from the computer, no power. Fuse replaced still no reading. Engine turns over but will not start. Wait engine light does not light up. Batteries charged to make sure there was enough power. Any ideas would be a great help.
Hi certificated mechanic here and a 90s 7.3 owner. Do you have white smoke from the tail pipe while cranking? If not your starving for fuel need to check the fuel bowl screen its located on the top right hand side by the fuel rails you’ll see something that looks like a valve stem. On the opposite side inside the fuel bowl a small hole. you’ll need a pick tool and scrape out the junk in it. If there is nothing in it and you have fuel pressure check the hpop if no fuel pressure check the fuel pump behind the fuel bowl. If you have any questions you can email me at Derekeholt@live.com
I’m just a reader looking for info because I am going to look at a vehicle with a Power Stroke engine this weekend…this article is great ammo cuz my boyfriend hates Fords,, dah???.
Anyway, you are a generous and kind hearted guy to offer your indepth expertise here. Im bookmarking this cuz I may need help later! Wish me luck and thank you.!
Derek Holt I know this was posted over a year ago, but was wondering if you could help me out with my 1999 ford f-350 7.3
Hey Derek, my name is Jaret and I own a f250 7.3L diesel 97obs truck. It bogged out on me going to work. I got it towed. Then it would start only when plugged in really. So I changed batteries, alternator, ICP sensor and Valve.
Fuel tank switch
Valve cover gasket
Glow plug relay.. still no start, no smoke out of the tail pipe.
A Napa fuel filter or wix I think.
Fuel bowl heater good ?
I hope you found your problem. Had the same issue on my 1996 PS. Searched and searched for the problem. Finally figured out it was a bad Superchip that the previous owner had installed. Pulled it off and truck started right up. Got a new chip from Hyp
99.5 F350sd7.3 4.x4
After the 1023 tune the engine smokes while in warm up mode. Once warm you can smell it but; not see it unless you dump the throttle in a hi performance mode.
Used mostly for towing horse trailers, no more then 18K combined weight usually. We have one live in that when loaded may be closer to 10k by itself.
It seems to have some clatter like valve lash or something in the top end. I was told to check for low compression?
Are there any better tunes out there for this vehicle ?
T444 injectors, boost fouler, 1023 tuned,
Airdog fuel pump system and running 70psi, fuel bowl delete kit,
Turbo ATS upgrade, 4”exhaust, exhaust back pressure valve delete, riffraff hydra,
95 f350 wont start or even kick over. New batterys celluloid took strter had checkd out good replaced back in . turned key on and click click. No start
Thank you so much for the information. I have a 98 7.3 t444e and it’s running great yet but when driving last night. I stopped it waited and started it and it’s got a heavy rocking noise in the engine.
Whoops I thought I looked at my voice text but did not hear .the engine is make a rocking sound
I’m working on a ford f350 7.3 with smokes coming from the rear and burned smell. I check rear brakes they were find. Have you guys had something similar? if so what did it boils down to.
I have a 1995 Ford F-250 7.3 diesel and I changed the fuel pump and the pickup lines in the tank and the screen also I put new glow plugs in with a new glow plug solenoid and a new starter solenoid. The truck will start up and run great at idle and I let it run in my driveway for 2 hours and it ran fine then when I started to drive the truck and got to about 30 mph the fuel filter light comes on and the truck runs like crap and dies out, has this problem happened to anyone else and if so what did you do to fix the problem I am out of ideas any help would sure be appreciated. Thanks
Did you find the problem mine is doing the exact same thing
Did you check to make sure their wasn’t any water in the fuel bowl, and that you had good pressure?
Same EXACT problem here. 95
Many thanks as I am looking for a 7.3 liter power stroke Ford f-250 1999,2000,2001 truck. Looking for one with lower than 160k miles and in good shape. Preferably stick shift and I hear the rebuild and maintenance much less. Do you have any thoughts. I am mechanical and work on my gas vehicles now. Will do the same for the truck .Looking forward as I haul construction materials and think the diesel will give better gas mileage…
I have a 2000 F450 7.3 215K miles for sale – any interest?
How much are you asking? Where is it located.
I have a 2000 f 350 162000.Body is not good.Runs great.
I’m looking at a ’95 XLT F-250 7.3L with a 5 speed manual. It has a little over 250,000 miles on it and the guy says it still runs good. I’m trying to gather as much information about these vehicles as I can before I go look at it. Thanks for putting this out there and providing remedies for each issue.
Hi Bryan, this hasn’t happened to me, but a friend. He said he had to bleed out water/moisture. My suggestion is that you check your fuel filter, or tank for contamination. Motor gets enough to run slow, but not enough through the filter assembly. Also check the lift pump it maybe not pumping enough fuel during demand. Good luck! Hope this helps.
Good call steve.im betting most all power loss issues in the stout old 7.3s is starvation. Why they charge crazy$ for watery paraffin clumping,far easier to refine Diesel fuel is beyond me. Cept maybe because you can actually store some for more than a month without it separating from it’s water based corn squeezin,s. Like the ethanol crap.that they’ve sold us on. Can’t have folks not being 100%dependant on fresh fuel. ..04 7.3 owner here. Only other diesel I know was the old 6.9 which was slow, but bullet proof. And would burn suntan lotion if fed while running. My o4 has so much waxy clumpy crap in the fuel filter tank it won’t even dump when yellow lever is actuated . I can only assume the entire system is coated with it.. didn’t force the drain issue got what I could with a rag ring out, repeat. Got my power back. And you’ll know when it’s back. Night n day man. Anyone know how or what to run through the entire system,cept injectors, that would break that sludge down
Hi. I have a 1999 ford 7.3 that just started to run rough. It only runs rough unload and idling. The truck had 136000 miles on it I change filter filter last year but only 6000 miles on it. I check codes and said exhaust pressure sensor. Is that the problem or something else. Thanks
Hi, check the Exhaust Back pressure tube, these tubes get plugged up and then the exhaust back pressure plate and the back pressure sensor start sending bad codes to the PCM. On my 95, 7.3 these can be removed including the back pressure plate under the turbo and engine runs fine. If you have a later model with a Waste gated turbo I am not sure if you can remove these. The sensor is cheap, the tube is hard to find but runs $30 bucks. Removing the back pressure plate requires turbo removal and a different plate under the turbo, costs around $60 to $100 bucks. Biggest cost is mechanical time to remove and replace the turbo.
I have a 2003 F-250 7.3 Diesel Crew Cab Lariat that I purchased brand new. It has 93,000 miles and continues to run quite well. I bought it to tow a 2002 30ft Travel Trailer and it was outstanding for the years I traveled all over the USA. No major issues, fortunately.
Dang I have a 2001 F350 with 80,000 miles I only use for pulling a 18,000k 5Th wheel and never ever had any problems. I do change all fluids every 4,000 miles and trans fluid every 20,00 miles. Three set of tires and two brake jobs.
My 2002 F250 7.3 engine will just die going down the road. Will not start right back up. Has to set an hour or so before it will start. The engine turns over during the wait time. May not run but a couple of miles and it does the same thing again. It’s just like I turned the ignition switch off, with no warning. I’ve replaced the 7.3 PowerStroke cam position sensor, fuel pump, strainer in the tank, and fuel filter. It seems like something electrical is heating up and shunting down the engine.
Had similar problem on my 2001, Check the main wiring harness where it crosses the Driver side valve cover. roll it over and check for bare wires, vibration and heat can cause the coating to wear off and short sensors out. seemed to be heat related. I isolated the damaged wires and put liquid electric tape on them then split a piece of rubber hose around all the wires to prevent chaffing. Worked for me.
Thanks I’ll try this
Removing the ipr at rear of high pressure oil pump & inspect the orings is a worthy try. I had similar problem after the truck had warmed up any amount. No start until cooled 30-60 minutes.
General restoration my f250 powerstroke
1996 7.3l iniciei em dezembro de 2020 já estou na metade do trabalho o chassi estava bem enferrujado mas agora com uma pintura eletrostática ficou muito bom e o trabalho continua
Hi, I’ve got a 2002 F350 7.3l with ~180k miles on it. ~300 miles after I bought it in May the engine shut off. There were no warning signs. It just shut off. Cool night FWIW. ~20 min later it restarted like nothing happened. ~10 min later it died again. I coasted to a stop and then it restart 15-20 min later again like nothing happened. A couple hours later in the evening again like nothing happened and I drove it home.
I steam cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel pick up filters and the mechanic replaced the fuel pump, replaced the fuel filter and replaced the cam position sensor.
30 miles after I picked up the truck from the mechanic it died again. I rolled it 1.5 miles over two hills to a stop. Good bearings. FWIW It was a hot day and it wouldn’t start ~20 min later but it started fine a couple hours later in the evening when it cooled off. I mention that in case the air temperature is a clue.
What can I do to diagnose the problem??
95.5 F250 powerstroke auto 4×4 owned since miles were 12600 almost new. Now has 116,000 very light use.
Have done all my maintenance with two exception went to Ford years ago with brake problem. After 3 tries they got a factory rep and got it fixed. Master cylinder bore diameter insufficiency. They did glow plugs another time.
I’ll try to make the current very long story short. It began with a no start hot problem that I overcame when necessary with a micro-second shot of ether. Before I got it fixed it became a no start problem. Since I’m not dependent on the truck, this became a 2 year project to get it running.
I’ll save space and just say it has a new Ford IPR, and Ford CPS, all fuses good, tach moves, wait to start light normal, check engine light seems intermittent. New fuel filter, new oil and filter, batteries good and kept charged, deadhead hpop pressure over 3k psi. both banks. Reservoir full. I removed the PCM, the plug is clean and ok, the IPR control wire has continuity. They’re is rust where PCM contacts the mount top and bottom. I opened the PCM and inspected it with a 3x glass and everything looks like new both sides of the board. No evidence of water beyond what I believe are mosfet anchor clips that have some minor rust as they extend outside the box probably for cooling.
Maybe the biggest clue is the following story of how I made it run very unconventionally.
First I replaced the IPR pigtail and when doing that I spliced in leads at the connections.
This allowed me to ground the wire going from the IPR to the PCM.
This made the truck start immediately and as I was prepared to do when it started hammering from 100% pressure I quickly disconnected the ground and the engine quit.
I realized that I could keep it running and avoid the hammering by rapidly making and breaking the ground circuit.
After discovering this I came up with a crude 2 pole commutator spun with a cordless drill to make and break the ground circuit. It runs quite normally and I was able to drive it around my property and bring the engine up to temperature.
The second this parallel ground path is interrupted it quits.
Do we think it’s a bad PCM ?
I have no way of trying another, short of buying one for $700. A big gamble.
No Autoinginuity available either.
? I have an ’01 with 238000 mi. It has an arachnid 8 pos. chip (I have never had in 7 or 8) the truck started and ran fine for the last year. So i put a cold air intake on it and about 3 days after that. it started long cranking when cold. it still starts it just cranks like 20 to 30 sec. when cold. I should say that if I drove it the night before it starts right away like normal but dies after 2-3 sec. then 20-30 sec. crank to start. because of this I’m thinking fuel issue but most of what I’ve read and seen possible injector O-rings. any help would be greatly appreciated. I make a living with this truck and can’t be with out it very long. thanks again.
2002 f250 7.3 444k miles shakes between 40 to 60 miles any solutions
1995 F350 5 speed, what should exhaust manifold temps be? Left side is running 50degrees cooler than right side. Right side is 195-200.
Smokes idling and running down the road, really smokes if I get on it. Fuel smell.
How can I tell if this has a chip in it, I’d like to remove it if it does.
Exhaust temps range anywhere from ~200 to 1200 & up, but you’re well into the red at 1200 degrees; you don’t want go go over ~1000 if you can help it. Sounds like you need to replace your injector cups. Can be done at home but it’s a tedious job; quite expensive repair if you have a shop do it because it takes a fair bit of time. The parts are not super expensive. You also likely need to replace your injector orings. You should not take my word for it though, you should have it professionally diagnosed. You don’t want to tear into this repair if you don’t need to. If it has a chip, depends on what kind you have. There are tuner chips that plug into the OBDII port under the dash & reprogram the PCM. Other chips, you physically remove the PCM (located behind the drivers side kick panel) & install something onto the chip. This style usually has a cable coming out of the PCM housing. If your PCM has been flashed, I beleieve the dealer can set it back to stock. If it’s the other kind, you can just uninstall it. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cables before messing with the PCM.
i have a 1995 ford 7.3 i put in 3 gal 0f oil in 10 miles did not know where it went the truck quite . i pulled the ejectors and replace the o rings . turned it over with the glow plugs out. put it back together found out the oil was going in the fuel tank. drained fluid.. it will not start. turned it over a lot of times .tried a little starting fluid it will start but it has to have high rpb it will not idle, took it to a shop they thought it needed new ejectors maybe one was cracked i do not think that is the problem but i do not know i am not a mechanic.
I have a 2002 F350 I purchased new. I am still driving it with 328,000 miles on it . It still has the original fuel injectors. Unfortunately the body is rusted but I still drive it everyday. Drove it to Florida twice, Maine seven times and to West Virginia . Spent $5000 on fixing it this year. I do my own oil changes and brakes to save money
I have a 2002 350 7.3 357000 miles on it it starts fine but when it’s cold it runs rough I can start and drive away step on pedal hard up to about 35 miles an hour and the roughness seems to clear anyone ever had this problem ?
97 7.,3 runs great then dies .replaced cam sensor .leaves no codes.run great and dies.restart and run agin…any have this problem
I have a 2001 that does the same thing,pull up to a redl or stop sign,it dies,put it in park or neutral and it starts right back up.it leaves no code on the computer to check.have had it at two different shops and they can’t find the problem,changed all sensors and pigtail harness.HELP.
I have a 2002 7.3 power stroke engine preheat light stays on and the engine cranks over but will not start or run
Start by checking the glow plug relay, the glow plug wiring, the connectors and the glow plugs. Next check the camshaft position sensor.
Bonjour. Ford 7.3.powerstroke 1996 auto diesel
Je cherche désespérément le numéro de moteur. Il semble y avoir une étiqueté mais elle est partiellement détruite donc illisible. Plein d autres numéros un peu partout mais apparemment pas celui du moteur… Pouvez vous m aider. D avance merci
I have a 97 350, it was my late husbands and very sentimental to me. I try to take good care of it, but also try to do whatever work it needs done myself. I want to put temp gauges and inner cooler on but not sure if i’d be getting in over my head.. Anyone no super mechanical do this themselves and how hard? I have replaced the starter recently myself and do all the oil changes.
Also, one of the two fuel gauges stopped working, how can I troubleshoot this?
Willow – installing an intercooler and temp gauges shouldn’t be too challenging, but I’d question whether you need them or not. Does your 7.3 tend to run hot? Or do you frequently tow heavy things? If not an intercooler probably isn’t necessary. It certainly wouldn’t hurt to have one by any means, but most intercoolers are $1,500+ so it’s a bit of an investment. I’d start by checking fuses to make sure it isn’t a fuse issue on the gauges. If not, my guess is probably a bad fuel sending unit.
I have a 97 power stroke that runs fine in cool weather , whenever the temperature gets above 80° it will cut out especially at low RPMs. once in a while it will do it at highway speeds the glow plug lights come on and usually if you let off the foot feed and press back down it will start up again.
My mechanic has looked at it a couple times and can’t find anything wrong.
Check your fuel peddle position sensor. These get contaminated with dirt over time and the potentiometer starts to stick. Remove it clean it with contact cleaner, blow dry and reinstall or replace the unit.
I have a early 99f350superdutyxlt autob4 wheel drill of a sundress when i give it fuel n about 25-3000 rpm’s the turbo sounds like a chew hee train n I loose some power. I It doesn’t do it in the morning when the air is getting colder up here in Alaska it has full boost on the way to work and it doesn’t squeal but later in the day it does squeal any ideas? Would be greatly appreciated!
Love my Early 99 First Gen 7.3 with 450,000 miles it still runs strong. Bought the truck in 2005 with 150,000 miles. Had the 4R100 trans replaced in 2021 at 405,000 miles. My 7.3 sports a fuel strainer before the fuel pump (very important) and a power steering fluid filter. I’ve also installed a larger air filter 800cfm, a coolant filter, a second oil filter and an in line magnafine trans filter. These filter additions add to the longevity of the 7.3. These engines need clean air, fuel and oil to keep the engine running like new. I’m planning on a one-million-mile engine. One other thing, I use diesel clean at every fill up. This helps keep injectors clean and the engine still gets 19mpg on the highway.
hi , i have a 99 450 7.3 488 thousand km on it , its always ran good but today in the cold rain it sputtered and died and was hard turning over , i evetually started it , , the alternator is 2 years old , it never did this before and its got me baffled , what makes it hard is that it was hard to start fro a while , yet lots of battery amps, any ideas? thanks
I have a 1997 f250 7.3 with over 450,000 still runs like the day I bought it best truck ever