6.7 PowerStroke
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The 5 Most Common Ford 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel Engine Problems

About Zach Mayock - DieselIQ

Meet Zach

Zach is one of the founders of 8020 Media and a lead writer for DieselIQ. He’s been in the automotive industry for over a decade and has published more than 400 articles for DieselIQ, TuningPro, BMWTuning, & more. His blend of automotive knowledge, writing & research skills, and passion make him an excellent resource for fellow diesel owners. His expertise goes beyond writing and includes a deep knowledge of Cummins and Powerstroke engines, as well as nearly 10 years of DIY experience. Zach is also experienced with tuning and has a wealth of technical knowledge that he brings to every article he writes.

One of the biggest challenges with the 6.7 Powerstroke is the addition of advanced emissions equipment. It’s one of the reasons that I still prefer a classic pre-emissions diesel for reliability purposes – but they just don’t produce the power that these newer versions do.

The 6.7 Powerstroke has a few common problems relating to emissions components, injection pumps, and turbochargers. Through our personal experience owning Powerstroke diesels and talking with many Ford Master Technicians, we’ve compiled a list of the five most common problems the 6.7 Powerstroke engines face.

Engine Generations

There are 3 different generations of the 6.7 Powerstroke. It’s been around since 2011 so naturally there have been a number of revisions and changes over the years. This is important to discuss as some of the problems these diesels experience is specific to the generation of the engine.

First, let’s talk about the major changes each generation went through. We’ll make sure we note which generation is affected by each of the common problems discussed below.

1st Gen: 2011-2014

Ford took over engine production from Navistar, having designed and manufactured the 6.7 Powerstroke Gen 1 100% in house. As is expected with a brand new engine, the first generations have the most problems and are the least reliable.

I don’t mean this in the sense that the 2011-2014 Powerstroke’s are bad engines. They just have more problems and reliability issues than the 2nd and 3rd gens, which makes sense. I would recommend sticking with a 2015+ model if it is in your budget.

2nd Gen: 2015-2019

Ford’s 2nd gen 6.7 diesel has some notable upgrades over the original engine. A few of the updates include:

  • IROX coating on lower main bearing
  • Heavier crankshaft damper
  • Fan clutch update
  • Turbo updates to support additional power and torque
  • EGR cooler flow

This isn’t an exhaustive list of updates for the 2nd gen engine. However, as you can see, there were quite a few important updates. Some of them are intended to improve reliability over the initial 6.7L which did experience common turbo and EGR issues. A few of the updates are also focused on improving torque and performance.

The second generation mostly fixed the turbocharger issues experienced by the first gen. 2017+ versions got better fueling and tend to be some of the most reliable for Gen 2.

3rd Gen: 2020-Present

The 2020 Powerstroke update was brought about to provide additional power and torque and address some weaknesses of the previous generation.

According to ProSource Diesel, a replacement and performance parts reseller, the third generation 6.7 Powerstroke fixed just about all of the previous generation problems. Furthermore, my own research digging through forums and Powerstroke owner groups hasn’t surfaced any problems that are consistent enough to be considered common problems.

Common 6.7 Powerstroke Problems

  • EGT Sensor Failure
  • EGR Cooler Clogging
  • Injection Pump Failure
  • Radiator Coolant Leaks
  • Turbocharger Problems

This is not an exhaustive list of anything that can go wrong. It’s also important to note – just because something is on this list does not mean every engine will have these problems. Nonetheless, these are a few common flaws with the 6.7L diesel. We’ll dive into each of these problems below and sum up the post with overall thoughts on how reliable the 6.7 Powerstroke is.

If you would rather consume this content via a video, check out our Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Common Problems video below:

1) EGT Sensor Failure

Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensor problems are among the most frequent issues on the 6.7 Powerstroke engines. The engine uses a total of 4 exhaust gas temperature sensors, so there are quite a few areas for potential failures. Ford issued a warranty extension to cover the EGT in the event of failure. Hopefully you’re under the extended warranty otherwise you’ll be paying out of pocket. Even after initial replacement the EGT sensors may fail again. EGT sensors 12 and 13 (the middle two) seem to be the most common failures.

Some also opt to delete the EGT sensors since they can be so problematic. Prior to 2015, these issues could potentially leave you stranded. Fortunately, in 2015, Ford issued a service bulletin to update the PCM to reduce the possibility of being stranded with a simple exhaust gas temperature sensor failure. Even then, it may be a good idea to carry an extra sensor around in the truck.


  • Check engine light
  • Fault codes
  • Failed emissions test

Once the PCM sees an EGT sensor problem it will usually set off the check engine light. You’ll also likely get a fault code (DTC) that points you in the direction of the sensor in question. P0544, P2031, P2032, P2033, P2084, P242A, P242D, P2471, and P246E are among a few of the common fault codes the 6.7L Powerstroke may throw.

Prior to 2015, exhaust gas temperature sensor 13 was the one that typically caused limp mode and an inability to drive the truck. Some have run into this issue even after the PCM update.

EGT Sensor Replacement Options

If one of these sensors goes bad check to see if you’re under the extended warranty or original factory warranty. However, some under warranty still elect to carry an extra sensor and do this job on their own. EGT sensors run along the exhaust and are pretty easy to access. Most can likely knock the job out in 15 minutes, and the sensors are only $35-50.

Ensure the exhaust isn’t too hot to work on. Otherwise, it’s about as straight-forward as a repair can be. This is why many elect to carry an extra sensor or two around. For some it may be too much of a hassle to bother going to the dealer for warranty work.

2) EGR Cooler Clogging

Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler problems are also one of the most common on the Ford 6.7 Powerstroke. It’s not as common as with the previous 6.0L and 6.4L engines, though. Ford actually changed the design of the EGR system on the 6.7L engine. The valve lies in the hot side now. EGR flows from the exhaust, to the valve, then into the EGR cooler if the valve is open.

However, the new design comes with problems of its own. Carbon deposits can build up on the EGR cooler core and cause it to become completely clogged. The good news is – replacement of the EGR cooler is a lot simpler than on previous engines. As with the EGT sensors some owners opt to delete the EGR system.

EGR Cooler Clogging Symptoms

  • Fault code P0401
  • Check engine light
  • Overheating

A check engine light and DTC code P0401 point to a likely issue with the exhaust gas recirculation cooler. You may also notice over-heating as the exhaust gas recirculation system may not effectively cool the gases when clogged.

Replacement Options

Once an issue with the exhaust gas recirculation system pops up some decide to simply delete the entire system. EGR delete kits may be found for about $300-400. However, this may create issues passing emissions tests down the road.

Otherwise, replacement is straight-forward compared to previous engines. The EGR cooler kit for the 6.7L Powerstroke runs about $200-300. Intermediate DIY’ers shouldn’t have an issue knocking out the EGR cooler replacement. However, it may take a few hours to complete.

3) CP4 Injection Pump Failure

Alright, this is our final somewhat lengthy topic. We’ll speed things up on the next topics. Injection-Pump (HPFP) failure may be a concerning problem for many 6.7L Powerstroke owners. This problem may be blown out of proportion, but it’s something to be aware of. The HPFP is a Bosch CP4 and is known to fail due to metal on metal contact within the pump. What’s concerning is this – metal contamination in the fuel system can take out many other components with it.

Some have ended up needing to replace a bulk of the fuel system when the pump problems occur. Everything from the injectors, regulators, and fuel lines may require replacement. There were even some class action lawsuits floating around for these problems. Fortunately, Ford is using a new pump on the 3rd Gen engines.

The CP4 is problematic enough that a lot of owners, especially those looking to add some power with tuning will opt to do a CP3 conversion.

HPFP/ Injection Pump Failure Symptoms

  • Stalling
  • Long crank or no start
  • Rough idle / stuttering
  • Severe loss of power

Once the pump fails you’ll have a lack of fuel flow which may result in the engine stalling. Once shut off the engine may experience issues cranking over and it may not start at all. Insufficient fuel flow may also result in rough idle, stuttering, and a severe loss of power. This all assumes the 6.7L pump is still flowing just enough fuel to keep the engine operational.

Injection Pump Replacement

Some 6.7 Powerstroke owners report spending upwards of $10,000 to fix the HPFP problems. This is due to the metal shavings from the pump ruining many other fuel system components. Ultimately, almost the entire fuel system must be replaced in this scenario.

If you’re lucky you may catch the problem quickly and prevent further damage. The pump may also fail in other ways that are not caused by metal-on-metal contact. In this case, the pump itself is still pretty expensive. Nonetheless, consider yourself lucky as it beats replacing the entire fuel system.

4) Radiator Coolant Leaks

The radiator is the most common coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke. We should note – the 6.7L engine actually uses two radiators. The primary radiator is the more common problem.

Look for potential coolant leaks up-front by the radiator. You may notice low coolant or overheating if the leak is bad enough or left alone for too long.

Radiator Replacement

It can’t hurt to upgrade if the OEM radiator gives out on the 6.7 Powerstroke. There are some great options out there, but depending on brand can be twice as expensive as the OEM option. The factory OEM radiator is made by CSF and they can usually be found for under $400.

Replacement isn’t too tough, but it’s a bit more complicated due to the use of two radiators. It takes some time and patience but DIY’ers shouldn’t have an issue knocking out the primary radiator replacement.

5) Turbocharger Problems

Turbo issues primarily affect the earlier 1st gen 6.7 Powerstroke diesel engines. Failures occasionally occurs with the turbo bearing. Many suspect the failures to be attributed to Ford opting for a turbo too small for the boost and torque requested. As such, failure may occur a lot sooner for those planning to modify their engines for more power.

The 2nd gen receives an updated, larger turbo to assist in making the additional power and torque. Turbo failures seem to be less common on these later model 6.7’s. However, a turbo does take a lot of abuse through its life. This is especially true on turbo diesel engines as they often have such a long lifespan. Modern turbos can usually last the lifetime of an engine, but this isn’t always the case with diesels that can run well beyond 200,000 miles.

It’s not really fair to call it a common problem in those cases when the turbo reaches the end of its natural life. Nonetheless, the point remains. Turbos are wear and tear parts and can fail on any generation 6.7 Powerstroke. Turbo lifespan may also be significantly reduced when modifications and tuning are added..

Symptoms of Turbo Failure

  • Excessive smoke
  • Oil loss / oil in exhaust
  • Turbo not reaching target boost
  • Whining turbo sounds
  • Power loss

When a turbo fails suddenly it will often dump quite a bit of oil into the exhaust causing oil loss and excessive smoke. We ran into a sudden turbo failure on one of our gasoline cars and it was quite dramatic. Also, listen for whining or unusual turbo sounds. Boost under target and power loss may also indicate the turbo is tired and on its way out.

Turbo Replacement

Exact replacement depends on the generation of the 6.7L Powerstroke engine. However, turbo replacement often runs north of $2,000. Some opt for an upgraded turbo if or when the OEM turbo gives out. Even if you’re not looking for extra power a larger turbo will take less abuse and should hold up better in the long-run. Of course, the trade-off being slower turbo spool if you go with too large of a turbo.

Is the 6.7 Powerstroke Reliable?

Yes and no. The Ford 6.7L diesel engine certainly has its fair share of problems, especially the 1st gen example. 2nd gen engines are an improvement, but still have their share of problems. 2015+ models are considered more reliable than the 2011-2014’s and 2017+ models are considered more reliable than the 2015-2016 models. So far I haven’t been able to find any research suggesting the 3rd gen 2020+ models have any serious problems, making them the most reliable.

A lot of the 6.7 Powerstroke problems stem from emissions related components that some decide to delete once problems crop up. There are a few things we didn’t mention like SCR and DEF. Of course, there are the legal aspects to consider upon deletion of OEM emissions equipment. Nonetheless, these engines certainly run better and more reliably by deleting some of these emissions systems.

The engine does have a few other non emissions related issues. Notably the injection pump problems may be concerning due to the extensive damage that may occur. Primary radiators are known to develop leaks as they age and turbos can be problematic on the early engines.


Ford’s 6.7L Powerstroke may not be the most reliable diesel engine around, especially compared to some older diesel engines like the 5.9 Cummins or 7.3 Powerstroke. Part of it is the nature of modern emissions equipment from the factory. Ford isn’t alone in running into issues with some of this newer, complex emissions stuff. EGT sensors and EGR coolers clogging are among the most common problems on the 6.7 Powerstroke and F250/F350 trucks.

These systems (along with some other emissions systems) can be deleted, making the engines a lot more reliable. Otherwise, look out for potential problems with the fuel injection pump as the failure may turn catastrophic quickly. Radiators are another common problem and early model 6.7L Powerstroke’s run into occasional turbo issues.

Take out the emissions systems and the 6.7 Powerstroke is a very reliable engine. Even with the few common problems these engines should be good for 250,000+ miles. Maintain your engine well and chances are it will reward you with a great overall experience.

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  1. I have 215000 miles on my 2013 6.7 and I guess I’m lucky after reading the common problems with the 1st Gen 6.7, my motor has given me excellent performance and reliability and still will rip the tires off the truck, I’m sold on the 6.7 and will buy another one when the time comes, looks like that will be awhile, I will replace the HPFP. Thank you for the info.

    1. Consider yourself lucky. I have a 2011 6.7. I have had virtually everything listed here go wrong. Including the “catastrophic” fuel system failure. That cost me over 10k. Goes back into the shop tomorrow. I replaced the AC compressor late last summer. Turned the AC on this spring. Not working. I now have a leak in the heater core. 10 hours of labor to fix. It just goes on. I keep thinking nothing else can go wrong. But it continues.

    2. Biggest problem is limp mode and idle only.
      Nearly got killed with road rage and the got stuck with idle only just because of a sensor.
      Failure. Nothing else wrong.
      Not reliable give me back my 99.

    3. I am just at 23700 and my engine is toast. The turbo MAP sensor and intake lines are a major issue that brought me to needing to replace the engine. You’re close to needing to make sure everything is working well even if it appears to be. This truck was solid for me right up until about now.

  2. Any thoughts on why the third generation will start to depower and die. If left for ten minutes before restarting it
    will start up and run fine. Truck is nearly fully loaded all the time. F650/750
    Usually happens when climbing a hill.
    Any suggestions appreciated.
    Well written site.

    1. No answers for you but our 2016 f350 towed boat fine but up a hill with the 5th wheel is a challenge . Did you get your truck figured out?

  3. Hello

    I did 620,000 km with my 2014 powerstroke, with a high engine rebuilt at 400,000 km, the exhaust valves were cracked and the push rods broken.
    I bought a new 2020 engine on checkout in december 2020 from ford and sold the truck to a friend, resulting in removing the DPF because the new engine was starting to have breathing problems.
    The truck lives and breathes.
    Anti-pollution yes, but in 2021 it is not yet developed and we are paying out of our own pocket for repairs on a truck that is costing us $ 100,000

    sorry for my english I use a translator

  4. If your intercooler hose on the cold side hasn’t failed it will.my 2015 6.7 failed 50,000 miles..suggest you carry a spare.Ford and their Dealers know this but don’t give a Damm. LEE

  5. I l0ve Ford trucks ! I have a 1997 F150 original owner ( 24 years) . I am now interested in purchasing a F250 Power Stroke Diesel, but after reading some of the comments I am concerned on the reliability of this 6.7L Power Stroke engine. However, I use to work on diesel engines many years ago in a trucking company and found them easy and not complicated to work on. But on these smaller engines the principles are still the same. what complicates these is all the smog equipment added to the engine, at least for California for sure.

    Can someone convince me otherwise that a Power Stroke will be a good choice.

    PS, I’m also concidering the Ram 2500 with the Cummins diesel engine.

  6. if you want a bullitt proof diesel,besides the 7.3. take a trip to brazil. buy yourself a,or couple, 4.2tdi 6.-07t. mwm sprint engines,. 5sp or auto, [chev]. . reliable as a rock. 12..5 lt 100. bigger turbo gives it 700nm. no computer,no glow plugs, nothing.. german engine.

  7. I’ve owned a 7.3, a 6.0, a 2011 6.7 and now a 2019 6.7. Never had any problems with any except fuel dilution on the 2019 6.7. I was not comfortable with the recommended oil change interval on the 6.7l so I began doing oil analysis each time I do an oil change. Four times the results have come back with fuel dilution (14.1%, 8.6%, >10% & 9.3% fuel dilution). I was changing the oil @ 7,500 miles and have since dropped to 5,000 miles. Each time I have changed the oil was before the Oil-Life Monitor indicated it was due. Sometimes the Oil-Life Monitor indicates 45% or more left on the oil and I change it anyway. Ford keeps telling me that is normal, possible from high idling, excessive regeneration or heavy towing all of which does not apply to my style of driving. My dipstick level has been 1 inch or more over the full mark when the oil is changed, yet Ford still claims that is normal. Has anyone else done oil analysis on their 6.7L or noticed the level above the full mark before changing their oil? Other than that…great engine.

    1. I have a 2012 i have noticed the high oil indicator line on the stick. Another problem i had was a small leak from the filter because of the double male fitting, I unscrewed the old filter and that caused it to loosen on the male screw into the block. New issues started yesterday with high turbo and it wont go over 20mph.

  8. My 2018 Transit turbo deisel truck had white smoke
    coming out exhaust. Truck still under warranty, so I take to dealership and they replaced the intercooler under warranty. 3 weeks later another engin light came on so I take it back to the dealership and they tell me the catylitic converter is bad and not under warranty. So new catylitic converter cost me $4600.00 to replace. Could the bad intercooler that went bad cause the catylitic converter to go bad? I have seen a post that antifreeze and oil can cause it to go bad.

    1. Gerald,

      I’d go back and get a refund on that catalytic converter for that price. It absolutely should be under warranty. I believe a catalytic converter is a specific major component of the emissions system. If you’re in the US that is covered by Federal Emissions Warranty for 8 years/80,000 miles.

      Best Regards,

  9. 2016 f250 powerstroke, 42000 miles, Maybe looking for another truck. To much money to be a high maintenance diva truck that demands a lot attention. Surprised., I expected more with the upgrade. Still driving my more reliable 1998 ford f250 with 160000 miles that l bought brand new. My wife prefer to drive the f150 than f250. The Saga continues, The F250 continues to be a issue with DEF dash code,its at Ford being service for three days and counting

  10. my 2017 f250 is the worst vehicle i have ever owned. i would never buy another ford again , even with the 100000 mile extended warranty ford is a nightmare to deal with .

  11. I own a 2022 F250 with the 6.7 powerstroke 1½ months 8000kms the turbo blew. I am down now for 2 weeks so far and sounds like i will be down a bit longer yet. So ya turbos deffinatly need attention.

    1. We bought a 2022 Ford F-450 with 6.7 Power stroke. 5000 miles & the oil pump failed. It’s been at the dealers for nearly two months while I have been communicating with Ford regional. I demanded Ford buy the truck back but they declined because we had our company logo put on the doors.
      The regional rep told me the dealer had torn the engine apart. Can’t believe it! Ford quality, job one? Give me a break.

  12. I purchased a used 2014 Ford 250 from the dealership, I also purchased a 4 year warranty, thank GOD I did so. This may be lengthy, but I hope it helps someone if they are thinking about buying one.

    Purchased in December (21) after driving for 2 days i noticed it had oil leaks,I take to dealership. They said it is okay to drive and to bring it back in 30 days. (I will explain why later.) I went ahead and drove it maybe 120 miles and engine light came on, took back to dealership. They changed several gaskets, all four shocks, back up camera as well as the EGR cooler, they had the truck for over 30 freaking days, yes, all covered by warranty. I get the truck back, had it for maybe a week and didn’t even put a hundred miles on it, it started over heating, they said it was the water pump and thermostats, they had it for another week. This time it cost me $645.00 for the thermostats. They said water pump is covered but not the thermostats. I get the truck back, I had it for the weekend. Engine light comes on, I called the dealership and told them I’d be bring it back on Monday. However, I started the truck Monday morning to take it to the dealership and the engine light was off, I took it up there anyways and told them to put on the scanner to read what fault it was, came back to low pressure in the turbo, or something like that. They told me the warranty company won’t pay to fix unless engine light is actually on. I take her back home, I drive it for a few days, well that freaking engine light came back on, they called me and told me the turbo is bad, they said the only way they will change the turbo is if I pay for an oil change. I told them to go ahead, so it’s gonna cost another $125.00 for oil change.

    I bought truck in December, I haven’t even put 500 miles on it. Needless to say I am frustrated as all hell.

    The reason the dealership wanted me to wait 30 days is because they have some kind of deal with the warranty company the the dealership is responsible for the first 30 days. So they tell me to wait so that they wouldn’t have to pay for a freaking thing. After the 30 days, the warranty company starts paying.

    This is my first diesel, my first Ford. Needless to say I am so not happy. I understand I bought it used, I am in no way blaming the dealership even if the 30 day wait should be considered fraud in my humble opinion.

  13. My 2014 F-250 6.7 turbo diesel with 154,000 miles on it stalled and it will not restart??? NO advanced warning of any problems

    1. My 17 mod has been completely stalling while towing a decent to heavy load and at full speed. Pretty scary in the fast lane at 80mph thru friggin Atlanta! Pull off to the side, shut down the dash and instantly re-starts. Ran another 800mi before it did it again. Had near 160k on the dash. This is my second 6.7 in 8yrs. Neither had been back to the deal for a single thing. Not a wiper blade! After the first went strong towing 50% of the time on the road, I had to buy another Ford. And now at 6-1/2yrs and over 205k I’m still pretty friggin impressed that this is my first problem with it. The dash flashes a quick fuel power fail and goes right off as it stalls so u have to see it quick. But then after it starts up u get zero warning before a failure. I have not noticed any issues with power loss or fuel mileage loss. Mechanics have told me to start with the sime stuff like fuel filters and diesel additive which has made zero difference. It’s now doing it more often and with lighter loads, but only when I’m towing and always at full speed. Other mechanics have said it could be an expensive find while breaking down the entire fuel system. I’m just planning to trade it in now and hope it’s new own is not a hauler. Overall still happy with both of my new 6.7’s.(2013 & 2017). Good luck guys!

  14. Ford really screwed everybody with this truck 2011 Ford super duty 67 but they also screwed there self I would never buy another Ford vehicle if their engineers can’t build something better than that then they don’t need to be selling trucks

  15. I just purchased 2022 Ford 350 dually with Powerstroke diesel. I read these nightmare reviews and wonder if I made the right purchase. I plan to full time RV and tow a 36’ fifth wheel. Some say the truck is great to own but others talk of many issues.

  16. Best diesel on the market. Duramax doesn’t even use a lift pump which causes extremely higher rates of fuel pump/system failures and broken cranks and nightmare emissions on a sorry truck equal a dodge. Ford still outsells the rest by far for a reason and it ain’t the price.

  17. i have 2016 f550
    leaked oil from day one
    after 6 months of trying to fix it they put in a new engine

    now no oil leaks , but for the past 3 years many check engine light issues

    has only 25,000 miles , now they tell mw it needs a turbo

  18. I have a 2014 F-350 with 220,000 miles. Tires, oil changes and a def heater are the only maintenance I’ve had to deal with. Until 2 weeks ago, left Illinois with a 4000 lb stock trailer to Missouri then near Tulsa Oklahoma. Was averaging 14 mpg for the first 100 miles and then realized the mileage dropped to 7.5/8.5 mpg. Then I realized the turbo wasn’t working. Every time we stopped for fuel and took off again (which was often) the turbo worked for 10-30 minutes but then quit again. Driving solo the tru runs at 18-19 mpg till the turbo shuts off, then back to 8 mpg. This morning a warning came up on the dash saying Exhaust Fitter Overload drive to burn off! Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

  19. I have a 2012 F250 with 6.7 powerstroke. December1st was driving home, stopped at stop sign, pulled out from stop sign and engine stops, will not turn over. Today 21 days later still “waiting on parts” to truley find out what problem is- broken exhaust vale is what they’re saying, won’t officially find out until engine is removed and taken apart. I loved the Powerstrokes, but I’ve spent over $10000 on this truck already this year and now this!, could cost up to $15000 this time! Really thinking of going to a Dodge 2500 with Cummins.

  20. 2016 F350 Deleted at 150 thousand pulled gooseneck 230 thousand no problems now i have a leak up top by the thermostat housing or egr cooler after driving truck several hours later i have coolant running down passenger side of trans / oil pan

  21. Bought a 2013- F350 4×4 DRW (6.7L) – so. 1st Gen Ford Engine. From day1 we have had excessive “turbo-flutter”. Ford tells us it’s normal….bs. -Any help out there for how to reduce/stop this flutter? Or is it a live-with-it issue (for 10 yrs now) of an undersized turbo? When fluttering, we loose pwr and have to apply more pedal to push thru it…..vr/ Wig

  22. I have a 2019 f350 just turned 51 k and had the rod on cylinder 1 fail. Made it home but dealer say could be up to 6 months or longer to get a replacement motor. Ford will cover cost but i still have to make the damn payment. Anyone ever heard of this happening at 51 k miles. Have had 99 and 02 f350 both have made it to 370 k before having problems

    1. Not on a 2019, but my ’04 6.0 dropped a fuel injector tip into a cylinder, punched a hole in the piston and intake valve, over fueled the cylinder and bent a rod and the crank… Totally grenaded @ 31k miles…! Yay, Ford, nice job… Replaced under warranty, replacement engine has had $30k of repairs/bulletproofing but it’s still a problem plagued 6.0. My ’11 6.7 was good for 97k miles, sold it, replaced that with a 2014 6.7, which is starting to have issues at 83k miles… I’d recommend another brand except they all have problems, doesn’t matter what you buy… It’s a total crapshoot… My Mercedes Diesels have been good engines, but even 1 of those blew a Turbo and you can’t get ’em in pickups trucks…

      1. Generally speaking why I prefer the good ole pre-emissions diesels but obviously you don’t get the creature comforts that we are used to from newer vehicles.

  23. We made a huge mistake and bought 3 2014 supedutys. All are personal use and all have taken thousands of dollars of repairs to keep them on the road. All are around 150k in miles.The problems all started right of the bat. The last one is a total engine replacement at 153k for no real reason.All have had had good maintainance.

  24. Man, after reading this article and the comments I may rethink downgrading from my 99 F-250 7.3L with 278K miles on it. I am looking at the 2015-2017 models and was OK with 150K or so mileage. I know the 7.3 has 500K possibilities without question. If I read this article right, are the 6.7s giving up at under 250K miles? My main reason to move out of the 7.3 is the manual transmission and Houston traffic. I love the truck, but as stated above, I would like to update some of the technology. I have had a Dodge and the engine is great but the rest of the truck was cheaply made. My 99 Ford has been a trouble free vehicle with only normal failures such as Alternator, Water Pump, and batteries. Brakes and tires as needed. I understand the delete part, but IF emissions testing becomes more stringent what are the ramifications of restoring that function? In Texas they are doing away with the safety inspection and diesels are not currently emission tested.
    This is a great write up and I appreciate you for compiling this information.

    1. I feel you – I always wish I had something newer with nicer technology and fancier features (and things that always worked and weren’t problematic), but it’s hard to give up the reliability and piece of mind you get with an older diesel. I wouldn’t say the 6.7 won’t make it to 250k, you’ll just probably run into some turbo and emissions problems by those mileage levels which are expensive repairs. Deletes are getting more challenging with respect to finding someone to do it and tune it and also with respect to the ramifications for getting caught. Better to have a truck that came from the factory with zero emissions equipment in my opinion. But you theoretically could un-delete a truck somewhat easily if you needed to. Just a matter of whether or not you can DIY it or have to find someone to do it for you.

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